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BIO
L’arrampicata è uno sport stupendo dalle mille sfaccettature, che mi ha insegnato come adattarmi alle situazioni nuove e cambiare velocemente!
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MAGIC MUSHROOM
La linea di “Magic Mushroom” è impressionante: gli ultimi 400 metri della via seguono un sistema di diedri liscissimi che a prima vista sembrerebbero impossibili da scalare; per superarli serve una buona dose di agilità e “creatività corporea”.
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WELCOME
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BIO
L’evoluzione costante che la scalata richiede è parte integrante della sua bellezza, ne sono convinto. Avevo 10 anni quando ho scoperto l’arrampicata e da allora non ho mai smesso di ridefinire i miei limiti e di adattarmi a nuove sfide.
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MAGIC MUSHROOM
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WELCOME
Siamo finalmente arrivati a Yosemite.
Ora resteremo ancora qualche giorno a “terra” prima di partire per una nuova avventura su El Cap... non vedo l’ora! 🙂🏞
/əbˈsɛʃ(ə)n/
Obsession: an idea or thought that continually intrudes on a person's mind.
I've started to work on this line many years ago. At the beginning it felt impossible and I could immagine to lead it, but I wanted to climb that piece of rock so bad that for some reasons I kept on trying it.
I spent many days alone just hanging on the static rope without being able to pull on those holds; slowly, day after day, I started to figure out the betas and do some of the moves. Many were still a big question mark, but I saw every little improvement as a big progression.
Last year I finally managed to do all the moves, which was a huge relief and a the same time a big source of motivation.
I decided to spend the winter training really hard for the project, but I wanted it so bad, that I didn't recognize my body was getting too tired and I got injured. It was hard to accept it, but I had to postpone everything to the next season.
When I went back to Cadarese this October I was super excited to climb on that line again. At the beginning I felt really weak on it, but after 2 weeks things changed; for the first time in 5 years I felt ready to lead it.
I was super excited, as I'd beeing waiting for that moment for a long time.
I decided not to join the The North Face athletes meeting in Puerto Rico, in order to have enough time to hopefully finish it off before to leave for Yosemite.
Two weeks ago, on the last day before the bad weather came in, I gave it a go falling really high. I felt very confident while climbing and I wasn't worried about the gear; I realized I could probably do it this season: I was super motivated!
I drove back home waiting for the bad weather to pass...but that still hasn't happened.
It's really hard to leave another time empty handed, but I already can't wait to get back on it the next season!
The bigger the effort, the sweeter will be the reward 🙂
Now it's time for some bigger walls in Yosemite! 🏞
📸 Paolo Sartori Photography
#NeverStopExploring
The North Face Black Diamond La Sportiva Vertical-Life Climbing App FrictionLabs #Katadyn
La nord dell'Eiger è una delle pareti più famose delle Alpi. Era da anni che sognavo di salire una via attraverso quel mare di roccia. "Odyssee", liberata nel 2015, vince la parte più strapiombante della parete ed attendeva ancora una prima ripetizione in libera.
VediNato e cresciuto in Alto Adige, ho mosso i primi passi “verticali” all'età di dieci anni, in palestra, dove la sensazione di libertà che ho provato scalando mi ha affascinato a tal punto da decidere di investire tutte le mie energie in questo sport, accorgendomi ben presto che gli sforzi venivano ripagati. VEDI
