Jacopo Larcher

Jacopo

Jacopo

EVOLUTION

The constant evolution that climbing requires is an essential part of its beauty, I am convinced of this. I was 10 years old when I discovered climbing and since then I have never stopped redefining my limits and adapting to new challenges.

Jacopo

Something about me

Date of birth

13.10.1989

Grown up in

Bolzano (IT)

Resident in

Bludenz (AU), or in my van

Favourite destinations

Yosemite, Indian creek and South Africa

Favourite book

Narcissus and Goldmund, H. Hesse

Favourite film

The green mile

Favourite food

Sandwich with pecorino cheese, dried tomatoes, humus and avocado

Languages spoken

Italian, English, French, German

Other passions

Photography, skiing, coffee

What inspires you?

People who aren’t scared of trying to achieve their dreams; the creative work of some photographers

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Motto

The only constant is change

Image
Jacopo, 2016 - "Free Zodiac", Yosemite
Jacopo, 2017 - "La Rambla", Siurana
Image
Jacopo

CLIMBING

Looking back now I realise how much the great passion I had for climbing has helped me to grow. Guiding, one climb after another, the transformation from the child I was to the man I have now become.

Jacopo

BIOGRAPHY

THE BEGINNING

I was born and grew up in South Tyrol, and taking my first “vertical” steps at the age of ten, in the gym, where the feeling of freedom I tasted while climbing fascinated me so much that I chose to invest all of my energy into this sport, realizing early on that the effort I put in was always rewarded.

MY FIRST VERTICAL STEPS

Two years from the beginning, I casually got in touch with the world of competitions, coming in second in my first ever competition. Encouraged by the positive outcome, I dedicated body and soul to competing, winning the youth national championships for a number of years, in both the boulder and lead specialities, and also competing abroad as part of the Italian National team. The victory at the Italian Championships of Bouldering in 2010 represents one of the most significant results as well as a turning point, because straight after I decided to give up on the universe of competitions.

THE FIRST GREAT MOMENT OF CHANGE

Motivated by the desire to tackle new challenges, my interest moved towards different aspects of climbing, passing from trad climbing to multi-pitch routes, to ice climbing and expeditions. It was never easy to let go of my origins, that is sports climbing and competitions, but I was determined to toe the line; that moment marked a new beginning, the time to test myself on more severe and stimulating conditions.

A NEW MORE COMPLETE WORLD

The latest adventures tackled are motivating me to persevere in my current passions: I aim to travel searching for my perfect line, with the dream of opening, in a remote area of the Earth, a route which is able to summarise the path undertaken as a climber. It is an ambitious dream, which I hope to achieve following my philosophy “the only constant is change”: to mature as a person and climber, in sport as in life, one must never fear of moving out of your comfort zone.

Jacopo

EXPLORING

Throughout the years, climbing has turned from a simple sport to a way of life: it has become a tool to learn and to grow, to explore the world, outside and inside myself.

Jacopo

SIGNIFICANT STAGES

  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2010
  • 2009

2018

  • Multi-pitch - "Delicatessen" - 8b, 130m- Bavella (France)

  • Big Wall - "Odyssee" (8a+, 1400m) - Eiger (CH)

  • Trad climbing - "The Path" 5.14a R - Lake Louise (Canada)

  • Sport climbing - "Quello che non c'è" 8c+ - Val Masino (Italy)

2017

  • Sportclimbing - "A Muerte" - 8c+/9a - Siurana (Spagna)

  • Sportclimbing - "La Rambla" - 9a+ - Siurana (Spagna)

  • Tradclimbing - "Gondo Crack" - 8c/R - Cippo (Switzerland)

  • Sportclimbing - "Profi" - 8b+/flash - Au (Austria)

  • Tradclimbing - "Big Issue" - E9/6c - Pembroke (UK)

  • Tradclimbing - "Muy Caliente" - E9/E10 6c - Pembroke (UK)

  • Multi-pitch - "Cosi’ parlo’ Zarathustra" - 7c, 230m First Free Ascent - Trono di Osiride (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "Sangre de toro" - 8b+, 250m - Rote Wand (Austria)

  • Multi-pitch - "Invisibilis" - 7c+, 450m flash - Marmolada (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "Free Magic Mushroom" - 5.14a, 900m - El Capitan (USA)

2016

  • Tradclimbing - "Rhapsody" - E11 7a - Dumbarton Rock (UK)

  • Sportclimbing - "Underground" - 8c+/9a - Massone (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "Golden shower" - 8b+, 150m - Gorges du Verdon (Francia)

  • Multi-pitch - "New Age" 8a+, 150m - Rätikon (Svizzera)

  • Multi-pitch - "Via attraverso il pesce" 7b+, 900m o.s. - Marmolada (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "La Cattedrale" - 8a, 800m - Marmolada (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "Free Zodiac" - 5.13d ,600m - El Capitan (USA)

2015

  • Sportclimbing - "Helmutant" - 9a Saustall (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "Exploration trip to Siberia" - Bilibino (Russia)

  • Multi-pitch - "El Nino" - 8.13b A0, 800m - El Capitan (USA)

  • Tradclimbing - "Lapoterapia" - 8c, First Trad Ascent - Osso (Italia)

  • Tradclimbing - "Psycogramm" - 8b+ trad - Bürser Platte (Austria)

2014

  • Tradclimbing - "Prinzip Hoffnung" - E9/E10 8b - Bürser Platte (Austria)

  • Sportclimbing - "Gorillas en la niebla" - 8b+ o.s. - Oliana (Spagna)

2013

  • Multi-pitch - "First Ascent of Zembrocal" - 8c max, 150m - La Chapelle Reunion Island (France)

  • Multi-pitch - "Vent ani do" 8a+ max, 300m o.s. - Meisules (Italia)

  • Multi-pitch - "Des Kaisers neue Kleider" - 8b+ max, 250m - Fleischbank Pfeiler (Austria)

2012

  • Sportclimbing - "Kalea Borroka" - 8b+ flash - Siurana (Spagna)

  • Sportclimbing - "Southern Smoke Direct" 9a - Red River Gorge (USA)

  • Sportclimbing - "Omaha Beach" - 8b+ o.s. - Red River Gorge (USA)

  • Sportclimbing - "Transworld depravityl" - 8b+ flash - Red River Gorge (USA)

2010

  • Competition - Campione Italiano Boulder - Novembre

  • Sportclimbing - "Reni’s Vibes" - 8c/+ - Massone (Italia)

  • Sportclimbing - "Dures limites" - 8c - Ceuse (Francia)

  • Sportclimbing - "Bah Bah Black Sheep" - 8c/+ - Ceuse (Francia)

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